Ya están aquí las Fallas. Los que vivís en Valencia lo habréis notado porque llevan ya varios días instalando alumbrados, más o menos gigantescos delante de vuestros balcones, y hoy, además, al intentar entrar con el coche en vuestra calle, os habréis dado de bruces con un carpa. Sí. Se respira en el ambiente. Eso que notáis es el humo de los cientos, qué cientos, ¡miles!, de paradas ambulantes que dicen vender buñuelos de calabaza, ese dulce típico de la época de Fallas que tanto nos gusta.
Pero no os dejéis engañar. Lo que se vende en esas paradas que surgieron como setas después de la lluvia en una sola noche, no son buñuelos ni por asomo. Muchos, de hecho, no llevan ni calabaza. Y qué contaros del aceite donde se fríen. El penetrante olor a quemado que inunda las esquinas de la ciudad y el humo negro que emana de esas freidoras no augura nada bueno.
Nosotras, por vuestra salud y para que, ya que os vais a saltar la dieta sin necesidad de pértiga ni colchón, le deis disfrute al paladar, os recomendamos algunos de los mejores sitios de la ciudad donde podréis degustar exquisitos y auténticos buñuelos de calabaza. Para llevar o para tomar allí mismo con un buen chocolate a la taza.
Fallas are already here. If you live in Valencia, you might have noticed because more or less gigantic streetlights have been installed in front of your balcony and besides, when trying to access your street by car, you have stumbled upon a big white tent. Yes. You can breathe it in the air. That thing you're smelling, that's the smoke coming from the hundreds -did we say hundreds? We meant thousands!- of street sellers who allegedly distribute pumpkin fritters to innocent passers-by. Pumpkin fritters (in Valencian, bunyols de carabassa) are some of the Fallas basic foodstuff and we like them most.
But don't be fooled. Whatever is sold in these street stalls which sprang forth as mushrooms after the rain in barely one night, it can't be described as a pumpkin fritter. Not in the slightest. In fact, many of them do not have pumpkin as their main ingredient. And what can be said about the oil where they're fried. The penetrating burnt smell at every corner of the city and the black smoke emanating from those huge deep-fryers are no good omen.
Because we have regard for your health and because we know you're going to pole vault diet no matter what, here you will find the top traditional establishments in the city to taste delicious, genuine pumpkin fritters. To take away or to take in dipped in a cup of nice hot chocolate.
Fallas are already here. If you live in Valencia, you might have noticed because more or less gigantic streetlights have been installed in front of your balcony and besides, when trying to access your street by car, you have stumbled upon a big white tent. Yes. You can breathe it in the air. That thing you're smelling, that's the smoke coming from the hundreds -did we say hundreds? We meant thousands!- of street sellers who allegedly distribute pumpkin fritters to innocent passers-by. Pumpkin fritters (in Valencian, bunyols de carabassa) are some of the Fallas basic foodstuff and we like them most.
But don't be fooled. Whatever is sold in these street stalls which sprang forth as mushrooms after the rain in barely one night, it can't be described as a pumpkin fritter. Not in the slightest. In fact, many of them do not have pumpkin as their main ingredient. And what can be said about the oil where they're fried. The penetrating burnt smell at every corner of the city and the black smoke emanating from those huge deep-fryers are no good omen.
Because we have regard for your health and because we know you're going to pole vault diet no matter what, here you will find the top traditional establishments in the city to taste delicious, genuine pumpkin fritters. To take away or to take in dipped in a cup of nice hot chocolate.
Horchatería El Siglo
A los pies de Santa Catalina, encontraréis este local que no solo sirve horchata. De él se dice que es el establecimiento más antiguo de entre los que sirven este refresco, pero lo que hoy nos interesa son sus buñuelos y su chocolate. Fundado en 1836, se trata de unos de los locales que sigue preparando los buñuelos a la manera tradicional. En la puerta, se puede asistir al espectáculo de ver cómo una señora con inmaculado delantal blanco, prepara los buñuelos a gran velocidad, creando círculos de masa perfectos con no menos perfectos agujeros. Si os queréis sentar, llegad pronto, porque a la hora de la merienda, está abarrotado. Aparte de la calidad del producto, su estética antigua, con azulejos valencianos, os encantará.
Horchatería El Siglo
At the bottom of St. Catherine's, you will find this café mostly renown for its top quality tiger nut milk drink. It is said to be one of the oldest cafés serving this refreshment, but today we want to call your attention upon their pumpkin fritters and chocolate. The shop was established in 1836 and they still elaborate pumpkin fritters in the traditional fashion. Sitting by the front door, you will see a lady wearing an immaculate white apron. She cooks dozens of fritters in the blink of an eye producing perfect dough circles with no less perfect holes in the middle. If you want to sit down, better come here soon, because by mid-afternoon the terrace is already crammed. You will love not only the product, but also its Art Nouveau interiors and the typical Valencian tiles in the façade.
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| Terraza de El Siglo / Terrace at El Siglo |
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| Decoración modernista de la entrada / Modernist interior |
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| En pleno proceso creativo / In the height of creative process |
Otro de los establecimientos históricos donde saborear buñuelos y chocolate a la taza con una estupenda relación calidad / precio. Acaban de ponerlo bonito para las cercanas Fallas y esta tarde ya estaban friendo buñuelos con un aspecto más que atractivo. Es cierto que a veces hay que hacer cola, porque la fama le precede, pero bien vale la pena por la recompensa. Como el espacio es reducido, las mesas están muy juntas, por lo que recuerda hablar bajito si no quieres que todos compartan contigo conversación, además de merienda.
Horchatería El Collado
Another historical establishment where it is possible to taste great value fritters and chocolate. They have just refurbished the shop to make it look great for the approaching Fallas and this very same afternoon they were frying really appealing fritters. You will have to queue because it is often crowded but the reward is worth the hassle. As the place is tiny, tables are rather close to each other, so keep a low voice if you don't want to share both chat and snack.
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| Entrada al pequeño bar / Entrance to the small bar |
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| Aquí puedes encargar tus buñuelos para llevar / Fritters to take away |
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| Buñuelos casi listos para tomar / Fritters almost ready to eat |
En el corazón del ensanche, se encuentra otro de los lugares indispensables en esta ruta del buñuelo tradicional. De nuevo, camareras muy pulcras, preciosos azulejos valencianos y mesas de mármol. La diferencia con respecto a los otros es que los buñuelos son de un tamaño considerablemente grande. Vamos, que nosotras que somos pequeñas, ayer con uno merendamos. Es uno de los puntos de encuentro de las señoras del barrio y local de obligada visita durante estas fiestas, aunque está abierto todo el año.
Buñuelos Fabián
This outstanding spot for traditional fritters & chocolate lovers is settled at the very heart of the Eixample (expansion district). The same pattern applies here: smartly dressed waitresses, beautiful Valencian tiles and white marble tables. The difference: fritters here are considerably larger. To give you an idea we -both of us are small- had enough with just one. This café is one of the preferred meeting points for the ladies who live in the neighbourhood and it's a must visit place during these holidays, even though it's open all the year round.
Buñuelos Fabián
This outstanding spot for traditional fritters & chocolate lovers is settled at the very heart of the Eixample (expansion district). The same pattern applies here: smartly dressed waitresses, beautiful Valencian tiles and white marble tables. The difference: fritters here are considerably larger. To give you an idea we -both of us are small- had enough with just one. This café is one of the preferred meeting points for the ladies who live in the neighbourhood and it's a must visit place during these holidays, even though it's open all the year round.
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| Puesto a la puerta de la cafetería / Stall at the front door |
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| Dorando los buñuelos / Browning fritters |
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| Entorno tradicional / Traditional environment |
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| Todo un manjar / A delicacy |
Horchatería de Santa Catalina
Justo enfrente de la Horchatería El Siglo, se halla Santa Catalina que también presume de ser bicentenaria. Precioso establecimiento modernista decorado con numerosas estampas valencianas en azulejo típico. Frecuentado por la realeza, como indican dos placas a la entrada, es uno de los locales con más solera del casco histórico y también el más amplio. Si decidís sentaros a tomar vuestros buñuelos, fiajos en la magnífica escalera con más azulejos y la barandilla de madera. Las mesas son también fabulosas, de mármol con patas de hierro forjado y sillas de madera de las de toda la vida. Un placer para los sentidos.
Horchatería de Santa Catalina
Santa Catalina stands just opposite El Siglo and it claims to be two hundred years old. Lots of typical Valencian vignettes decorate the tiled walls of this gorgeous Modernist establishment. As two plaques recall by the entrance, this place was visited by the royalty and it's considered one of the most traditional cafés in the old town as well as one of the largest. If you decide to sit down to have your fritters, take notice of the magnificent tiled stairs and wooden banister. Vintage chairs and fabulous tables with white marble top and wrought-iron foot complete the scenery. A pleasure for the senses.
Horchatería de Santa Catalina
Santa Catalina stands just opposite El Siglo and it claims to be two hundred years old. Lots of typical Valencian vignettes decorate the tiled walls of this gorgeous Modernist establishment. As two plaques recall by the entrance, this place was visited by the royalty and it's considered one of the most traditional cafés in the old town as well as one of the largest. If you decide to sit down to have your fritters, take notice of the magnificent tiled stairs and wooden banister. Vintage chairs and fabulous tables with white marble top and wrought-iron foot complete the scenery. A pleasure for the senses.
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| Acceso con Santa Catalina y el Miguelete / Entrance flanked by the silhouettes of St. Catherine's and the Miguelete |
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| Detalle de las placas conmemorativas de la visita de la infanta Isabel / Plaques commemorating the Spanish Princess Elisabeth's visit |
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| Recreación de la rendición de Valencia al rey Jaume I / Depiction of the surrender to king James I |
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| Tablero de la mesa en que fue atendida la Infanta / Top of the table used by the Princess |
Además de estos lugares históricos, si quieres huir del bullicio y de las colas, puedes acercarte al Bar Riera, en la calle San Vicente 156, o la Bunyoleria El Contraste, en San Valero 12, en pleno barrio de Ruzafa. Estos elaboran buñuelos durante todo el año, aunque ojo, porque el bar Riera solo abre a diario en Fallas y fuera de estas fechas, únicamente los domingos.
Besides these remarkable places, if you want to escape the hubbub and never-ending queues, you can drop by Bar Riera (San Vicente 156) or Bunyoleria El Contraste (San Valero 12), located in the heart of Ruzafa. Both establishments offer fritters throughout the year but bar Riera is open daily just for the Fallas and then it's only open on Sundays.
Besides these remarkable places, if you want to escape the hubbub and never-ending queues, you can drop by Bar Riera (San Vicente 156) or Bunyoleria El Contraste (San Valero 12), located in the heart of Ruzafa. Both establishments offer fritters throughout the year but bar Riera is open daily just for the Fallas and then it's only open on Sundays.
Receta
Ingredientes para unos 15-18 buñuelos:
- 400 g. de calabaza asada
- 200 g. de harina
- 25 g. de levadura fresca
- Un dedo de agua para deshacer la levadura
- 1 litro o 1/5 de aceite de girasol para freír
- Azúcar para mojar los buñuelos
Antes de empezar a freír, es recomendable tener un bol con agua para mojarse las manos y que así la masa se despegue con facilidad. Ten en cuenta que necesitarás a alguien que te ayude a ir sacando los buñuelos de la freidora porque tú no podrás solo o sola.
Elaboración
Asa la calabaza durante una hora. Retira las semillas y las hebras, pon la pulpa en un bol y deshazla con un tenedor. Disuelve la levadura en un poco de agua tibia y mézclala con la calabaza. Poco a poco ve añadiendo la harina a medida sin dejar de remover la masa hasta conseguir que esta quede suave. Tapa el bol y deja reposar entre 20 y 40 minutos. Verás que a la pasta le han salido unos agujeritos. Ha llegado el momento de freírlos. Necesitarás una sartén honda con mucho aceite y un colador para ir retirando los buñuelos. Ahora, con la mano húmeda, coge un poco de pasta y apriétala hasta que salga en forma de bola entre el dedo gordo y el índice. Con la otra mano, le haces el agujero y lo dejas caer en la sartén. Cuando estén dorados uniformemente, sácalos del aceite y ponlos sobre papel de cocina para que absorba el aceite. Espolvoréalos con azúcar y cuidado con quemarte la lengua.
Recipe
Ingredients (15-18 fritters):
Before you start frying, prepare a bowl of water so you can dip your hands in from time to tima and prevent the dough from getting glued to your fingers. Keep in mind you will need help to take the fritters out of the frying pan.
Method
Roast the pumpkin for an hour. Remove seeds and strings. Put the pulp into a bowl and squeeze it with a fork. Melt the yeast in a bit of tepid water and mix it with the pumpkin. Add the flour little by little always stirring the dough until it becomes soft. Cover the bowl and let it settle for 20-40 minutes. Little holes will appear in the dough. Now it's time to start frying. You'll need a deep frying pan with plenty of oil and a strainer to take the fritters out. Now, with a wet hand, pick up a bit of dough and squeeze it until a ball comes out from between your thumb and your forefinger. With the other hand pierce the dough till you get a hole in the middle and drop it into the pan. When the fritter turns a nice brown, take it out and leave it on a dish previously coverd with kitchen paper to absorb extra oil. Sprinkle profusely with sugar and be careful not to burn your tongue!
Recipe
Ingredients (15-18 fritters):
- 400 g. roasted pumpkin
- 200 g. flour
- 25 g. fresh yeast
- A bit of water to dissolve the yeast
- 1 l. o 1/5 sunflower oil
- Sugar to dust the fritters
Before you start frying, prepare a bowl of water so you can dip your hands in from time to tima and prevent the dough from getting glued to your fingers. Keep in mind you will need help to take the fritters out of the frying pan.
Method
Roast the pumpkin for an hour. Remove seeds and strings. Put the pulp into a bowl and squeeze it with a fork. Melt the yeast in a bit of tepid water and mix it with the pumpkin. Add the flour little by little always stirring the dough until it becomes soft. Cover the bowl and let it settle for 20-40 minutes. Little holes will appear in the dough. Now it's time to start frying. You'll need a deep frying pan with plenty of oil and a strainer to take the fritters out. Now, with a wet hand, pick up a bit of dough and squeeze it until a ball comes out from between your thumb and your forefinger. With the other hand pierce the dough till you get a hole in the middle and drop it into the pan. When the fritter turns a nice brown, take it out and leave it on a dish previously coverd with kitchen paper to absorb extra oil. Sprinkle profusely with sugar and be careful not to burn your tongue!
Curiosidad
Como los buñuelos suelen tener una forma irregular, en valenciano la palabra se suele utilizar para designar una cosa mal hecha, lo que en castellano viene siendo un "churro". Así que si alguna vez alguien te dice que "has fet un bunyol sense forat", te está diciendo que lo has hecho mal.
As a curiosity
As fritters usually have an irregular shape, the word "bunyol" (in Valencian) is often used to refer to any kind of fail. So if anyone ever tells you "has fet un bunyol sense forat" (literally you've made a fritter with no hole), you've really messed it up.
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